![]() 1 good-sized decal sheet, perfectly registered, with optional flags and national markings.1 28-page black and white instruction booklet in three languages (English, French and Spanish).1 bag of single ply black nylon thread used for antenna wire and rigging.9 main plastic sprues in hard, grey plastic.The contents in the enormous box are compact just enough to keep these large parts from damaging the smaller parts on individual sprues.Īnd speaking of sprues, a model of this size requires some structure, and many of the sprue connections are massive, yet Revell made sure that the smaller, delicate parts have tiny connection points that are easily snipped and cleaned. The two halves of the hull (split down the middle) are sandwiched around a thick piece of cardboard, while the single piece bow and stern sections are packaged separately, as are the three deck sections that cover the seam down the middle of the hull. The first thing you notice opening the box is the great job Revell has done in packaging everything, and designing the model to minimize exposed seams. She is the oldest of her class still in existence. ![]() Rice in command.ĭrum was the twelfth of the Gato class but was the first completed and the first to enter combat in World War II. She was laid down on 11 September 1940 at Portsmouth Naval Shipyard, Kittery, Maine, launched on, and commissioned on 1 November 1941, with Commander Robert H. Drum is on display as a museum ship in Mobile, Alabama, at Battleship Memorial Park. The subject of this review is the U.S.S Drum (SS-228), named after the Drum fish, known for their ability to make a drumming sound. Together with the Balao and Tench classes, their design formed the majority of the United States Navy's World War II submarine fleet. The United States Navy Gato-class was the first mass-produced US submarine class of World War II. Overshadowing everything, however, is simply the sheer size of the hull – an ambitious project for any modeler. Also included are three sets of pre-bent, steel wire steps as well as a variety of pre-drilled stanchions for stringing safety cabling. If I add a little Fairy (other dishwashing soap is available!) to the paint/water mix will this help out or just make it worse.Īny advise or tips or other methods will be greatly received.Revell has re-released their vintage WWII Gato Class Submarine in enormous 1/72 scale – topping off at just over 52 inches in length! Surface detail of the deck and fittings is excellent, as well as their renderings of the 20mm, 40mm, and 4inch deck armament. I have seen videos on YouTube of people using watered down acrylics which looks so easy to do but I just can't do it as the water just beads up on my gloss clear coat. ![]() ![]() I have tried using some Tamiya powder but the effect just doesn't look right to my eye, looks a bit clumpy and wondering if the apparent slight tackiness of my Alclad is the cause. I have some Mig Rainmark effects (Mig-1208) with which I am having limited joy with (this is just down to my inexperience, not the product!!) but my main issue is with trying to weather the large black expanse of the hull! Now when I have used it before it went off really quickly but for some reason seems dry but still a bit tacky and will leave finger prints if I hold it for too long! Not a great problem as I'll just wear gloves. That was done midweek and has been in the house the last few days to dry. I finished up painting my model and in readiness for weathering I put down a gloss clear coat of Alclad Klear Cote Gloss (ALC310-60). OK peoples, I need a little guidance/assistance. ![]()
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